Day 98 - Lencois to Salvador, Brazil

An early start today as it is time to leave the amazing Lencois to go back to the city. It will hold a very fond place in hearts - such a lovely place. We get the bus at 7.30am and set off on our six hour journey back to Salvador. It's funny how six hours on a bus feels like nothing now. We even welcome a bit of enforced down time to just sit back, read and relax. Nat is getting really into Atlas Shrugged which pleases me. 

We arrive at the bus station and after not being able to resist that alluring smell of Subway we get a cab to our hotel - Pousada Redfish. It's another great little find for £50 per night. A quaint little boutique hotel in the Saint Antonio area of Salvador just five mins walk north of the main area of Pelourinho. 

After two good face time sessions with the rents we head into town. It is a much better experience than the last time we arrived here at gone midnight when the place looked decidedly dodgy. 

 

The church outside of our hotel. Salvador is a beautiful yet quite gritty place. It is jam packed with the most beautiful churches that are all lit up wonderfully at night. 

The walk into town with our second clear  night in succession. We were beginning to think that it constantly rained in Brazil at night (we turn out to be right later on when it rains again. But luckily only for 15 mins). 

Within about 100 metres we have passed three huge churches. They love a bit of Jesus around here. 

A cardboard cut out of Michael Jackson on the spot where he filmed his video "They Don't Really Care About Us" that used local drummers and dancers. Naturally this song is in our heads for the rest of the night. 

We then hit the main square which is absolutely heaving to the right hand side of this picture (a bit too heaving to get my iPhone out to take a picture). It has a slightly weird vibe about the place that puts us a little on edge which isn't helped by a kid trying to pick pocket me. Luckily I had clocked him approaching and shooed him away as he tries to poke around my belt and pocket. Literally five minutes later we see the little blighter being dressed down by the police and hauled away. 

We then find a nice little bar with a band playing outside. In the background we hear the sound of drums drawing nearer and are about to get our first taste of carnival. It's annoying for these two guys as it is so loud everytime they go past the end of the road that they have to stop playing. 

And then we get our first taste of the amazing and vibrant Brazilian carnival spirit we have heard so much about. Thousands of people pack the streets with hundreds of drummers. The sound is deafening but they are all in perfect unison. It sounds amazing and is spectacular and impressive to watch. 

The conductor at the front was brilliant. So skilled in controlling and setting the pace and rhythm of what would appear to the layperson as a rabble of drummers. 

There are so many though that they have a chain of conductors throughout who all take the lead from the front one. 

As they pass we join the huge crowds following them through the street. Little stalls have popped up selling cheap beer and food and it is an all round awesome party atmosphere with everyone dancing to the deafening beat. 

Theatrical drumming. 

The two most theatrical guys of the bunch are at the back juggling their drum sticks between beats and having a very animated dance off. 

They say the best Carnival in Brazil is Salvador's as it is a street party and is more 'natural', just roaming through the streets like an out of control conga. If this is what it is like we can see why. Amazing and such an unexpected experience. Electric party atmosphere which makes us very excited about the Rio carnival now at the end of the month. 

After we go down one of the side streets and stumble across one of the Lonely Planet recommended restaurants called Zulu. We both have a great Masaman curry - our first since Thailand and it was actually delicious. Great first night in Salvador.