Day 97 - Lencois, Brazil

Time for our second tour today to the Cachoeira do a Fumaca in Vale de Capo, which is a monster of a waterfall that is a mind boggling 375 metres high. Having been so impressed by the 100m high one in Banos we can't wait to see what this one looks like. That is crazy high and the highest waterfall in Brazil. 

We are actually lucky to be on this tour today as the tour company we had booked with (same as yesterday) had called last night to say that as it was just two of us on the tour (no one else had booked) the price was now 35% more, which make it pretty expensive so we said no thanks - get no money instead! Luckily the hotel managed to find us another one at 10pm last night. 

It's about 100km to where we start our trek which takes about two hours to get to. The roads for the last 30km are just dirt tracks and very bumpy. This national park is strange in that it is not touristy at all. It's like it hasn't developed into a proper tourist attraction yet so the infrastructure hasn't kept up. Even road signs to the main sights are few and far between so finding anywhere without a guide would be nearly impossible. 

Quick stop in a gorgeous little town to pick up our packed lunches. 

We arrive and set off. In all it is 6km to the waterfall and 6km back which takes about two hours each way. It's a tough start to the walk as the first hour is getting up onto the top of the mountain which is fairly steep. Once on top we walk across the top of it for another hour which is pretty flat but like a rock laden swamp / marsh land. 

Making our way up the rocky paths. 

Great views of the valley and this was only half way up. 

Once at the top we set off across a very wide and flat plain which surprisingly had water everywhere. It was like a giant rock pool and we spent most of the walk avoiding large pools of water and using the rocks as stepping stones. It's a great walk as it's so unusual and one where you really need to concentrate. 

At one point the water is too deep for stepping stones so we have to take our shoes and socks off to wade through it. 

Needless to say after a few mistimed jumps or leaps onto what you thought were rocks but turn out to be quick sand my new trainers are not looking so new anymore. 

We arrive at the waterfall at the top and are surprised by the tiny little stream that feeds this monster. It doesn't look much at all. The picture below is the edge of the waterfall, still at least there is no shortage of water feeding it. 

Shoes and socks off again to cross the river (that's how big it is) to get to a good viewing spot of the waterfall. 

At the edge the valley just drops away below us in quite spectacular fashion. The juxtaposition to the flat we have just walked across for an hour is the most striking. 

Now at this point it was a bit of an anti climax as we can't really see it properly, from the top this is the best shot I can get with arm stretched out over the side. 

The only place to get a great view is by lying on the floor and shuffling yourself over the edge of an overhang in the cliff. This made me feel really funny as it is so high and you are so exposed out there. 

Excuse the bald patch. 

The rock I am lying on is only about 12 inches thick. The rock below is miles behind it. It literally is just a platform hanging over the edge of a 400m precipitous drop. 

Needless to say I ask our guide to take a picture of the falls with my other camera as he is fearless about getting close to the edge, wind pounding his back as he takes this. Nut case! 

And the results of his gallant efforts...

Lovely rainbow over the valley as the sun comes out. 

After a spot of lunch we then go around to get a better view and it all becomes worth it. What a waterfall. The height is truly outstanding. We climb down some rocks on the other side which poke out far enough to get a great view. We still can't get a full length shot though or see the bottom as this would again involve getting right to the edge of a vertical drop. 

In this pic this huge cliff face looks just like a face complete with hair. Didn't spot this at the time. 

Another cracking rainbow. 

Panoramic view of the valley. 

Then it's time for our two hour hike back. 

More ducking, diving, jumping and getting our feet wet all the way back. 

We were mesmerised for ages by a fight to the death between a pretty big spider and a beetle. The beetle was holding its own. Unfortunately we have to move on before we find out who wins. 

Love the mountain scenery around here. Looks like something out of an old wild west film. 

We finish the trek which is good timing as by now the sun is blazing and it is boiling. Our guide then takes us 10 mins down the road for a swim and to see another waterfall. Loving the amount of swimming holes there are underneath fantastic waterfalls here. 

Spot little old me catching some rays in the middle of this. 

Our guide turns into crazy rock climber man. I don't follow his route needless to say. 

After our very welcome swim in the cold water and fun climbing up the rocks to sit underneath the waterfall we head back into town. 

After a nice warm shower we have a little wander around town trying to avoid hills as our legs are starting to get very stiff. It is such a beautiful town with lovely colourful buildings and quaint architecture. 

We eat at a great restaurant called Lampao which is decorated fantastically. 

After dinner we head down to the main square and see a big group practicing Capoeira, a Brazillian martial art that combines elements of dance, acrobatics and music. It was developed in Brazil with heavy African influence and is also known as the Dance of War. Capoeira is also used in genuine self-defense situations as it incorporates many sweeps and low moves, whereas when played as a game such as here there is more emphasis on high moves, demonstrations of acrobatics, full cart wheels (which is how they start but also for evasion) and flips. It's really great to watch and looks like great exercise. The guys are ripped. 

After a night cap we head back to te hotel for an early night. Farewell to Hotel de Lencois and Lencois in general- you have been amazing. An utterly spectacular and beautiful place. Back to Salvador tomorrow on the 7.30am bus.