Today we are off on a day trip to the coast to a place called Viña del Mar which is an area in the city of Valparaiso (Chile's third biggest city). Vina del Mar is Spanish for “vineyard by the sea" but we do not see any vineyards by the sea. It may as well be called 'vineyard by the sea but further up the coast somewhere other than where you are'.
Vina is about an hour and half on the bus from Santiago so we set off across town to the bus station. We get on the bus at Pajaritos metro station to the west of the city. Yet again the bus is amazing. Like sitting on sofa and only about £8 return for both of us (company is called Turbus). They also go every 10 mins as well so no waiting around.
We arrive in Vina and the bus station is a couple of km from the coast so we decided to walk it as we are not in a rush. It's a nice little town and a hive of activity. A lot nicer than central Santiago but not quite as nice as we expected. The guide books make this place out to be amazing - THE destination for Santiagans who escape the city for the weekend but we are not convinced. This may look nice below but the water to the right stinks. Probably why they have blocked it off from going into the sea.
The walk to the beach stinks of horse shit - literally as there are hundreds of people trying to sell you horse and cart rides. Not sure why as Central Park this isn't.
We then reach the first of three beaches we go to which in fact are one long beach split into different parts. There is a hideous derelict pier with a giant industrial crane on it half way down the beach which is a bit of an eyesore. The landscape looks a little 'Benidorm' but when you actually get up close to a lot of the high rises they look quite nice and are pretty expensive condos.
Crazy hobbies here. These guys were riding their bikes across the rocks, hopping from one to the other. They were amazing but such a high risk sport. Any sort of fall would have definitely ended in tears. I think the toughest bit of it is remembering to not sit down as they have no saddles.
We chill out for a few hours on the beach. It's not the nicest. A bit dirty and the water is freezing to due arctic currents. I did see a real life sand monster though. And WHAT A MONSTER!!!! Its name was Nat and it came out when she was sunbathing face down and I lifted the bag over her dropping "a little bit" of sand on her newly lotioned body. Wow what a reaction. They could have filmed a scene from the Incredible Hulk here. Thought I was sunbathing with Pete who I thought hated having sand on him the most. Clearly not. Must be a Callas gene. Anyway after about 20mins of swearing and shouting at me the sand monster pipes down a bit and goes back to sunbathing. Phew.
In case you are struggling to imagine this here is a sketch of what she looked like.
After we grab a coffee and a bite to eat at Starbucks (to really explore the local cuisine!!) and then get a cab back to the bus station. The ride home was a lot longer due to traffic and it dropping us at a station further into town. We don't get back until 8.30 and the hotel about 9pm (of which 20mins was due to Nat getting stuck in a toilet annoying the locals). We are pretty pooped and full from a late bite to each so decide to chill out tonight in the hotel.
Observations of Santiago so far.
- This place is absolutely full of fat people, especially the women who are also very short
- Everyone's fashion sense is absolutely shocking. They are not even behind the times. Just appalling choice of clothing at all times.
- It's a late night type of place
- The metro system is excellent. It spans the whole city and also runs on tires!
- Great climate
- There are lots of forest fires in the surrounding mountains which is why the city is so hazy and what helps us create some fantastic bogey formations.
- Trying to buy a large bottle of still mineral water is nigh on impossible. We have been in at least 25 shops across the three days trying to buy one and have had no luck.
- 'Coke Life' is big here whatever that is! (like a new type ie Coke Zero or Diet Coke)??
- Nat cannot stop saying "San..tiago[Diego]... Breath it in. Discovered by the Germans in 1904. They decided to call it Santiago which of course in German means?.." (You know that rest!)
- Sand monsters live here
Just googled the Anchorman quote.....whale's lady bits, derelict piers, stinking water, industrial cranes, horse shit, disappearing vineyards and a rather lovely sand monster......it has to be said that your blogs are CAPTIVATING me, Aaron!! You haven't sold me Santiago...YET....but I'll give you more time!!!! I'm so ecstatic that Day 54 wasn't your BIRTHDAY......even the beer had a camel toe, for goodness sake!! Anyway...it's all a gripping read- enjoying your blogs more than I can say, darling!!! Lots of Love, Eric xxxxxxxx
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